← Writing
24 July 2026·Essays

The Pueblo Sabbatical

I'm sitting writing this on what should have been my last day in Cortes de la Frontera, a hidden gem nestled in the Serranía de Ronda. A nine month tenure that started with a list of goals, a rented house far too big for one person, and a deliberate decision to put myself two hours from the nearest friend.

I first discovered Cortes in December 2023, when I organised a three day hiking trip here with a group of friends. I came back for a month in early 2024, and despite the rain, I loved it and always wanted to return. Over the years I've travelled a lot, and between travels I've spent stretches living a month at a time in different corners of the Andalusian campo. I even almost bought a house out here last year, in Alozaina, but for reasons beyond my control the purchase couldn't be completed.

Three friends at a summit trig point in the Sierra de Grazalema
Two hikers photographing the view from a limestone ridge near Cortes
Group of friends on a rocky mountain ridge near Cortes de la Frontera
Friends gathered on the steps of a white Andalusian pueblo
Friends and a dog at a mountain summit with clear blue sky

First discovery of Cortes de la Frontera, December 2023

I've always described moving to Cortes as escaping the city. I'd grown tired of Málaga. The gentrification, the busy streets, the reggaeton. But I was still in love with life in Andalusia. I was tired of constant travel (I'd made a habit of moving around a lot), of never being able to put my bags down long term. I was craving rhythm and routine. More than that, I wanted to challenge myself. I committed to taking a year off work. I wanted boredom. I wanted to eradicate options. I deliberately put myself two hours from where any friend lived, in a separate country from my family. With all that time and space, I wanted to see what would come up. What would I be inclined to do?

On being alone

I moved here knowing I'd be alone most of the time. Visitors occasionally, but mostly alone. I expected winter to be the hardest, the long dark days, the cold, the constant rain. But it didn't get to me. If anything, people who visited said I romanticised the cold and the rain. I became super focused on my projects through that period, telling myself: now is the time, because in a few months it'll be warm and I'll want to be outside all day. What caught me by surprise was the opposite. When the days got longer and warmer, I suddenly had evenings to fill, and that's when the pangs of loneliness arrived. But loneliness isn't new to me, and it was never just about being physically alone. Living in Málaga, surrounded by people, options, bars, things to do, I'd sometimes feel just as lonely. The paradox of choice would get to me, and instead of picking something to do I'd pick nothing. Moving to a pueblo with a tiny population, a handful of bars, hardly anyone my age, no tourists, almost no foreigners, simplified everything. I never had FOMO in Cortes.

Hiking in the hills around Cortes
Hiking in the hills around Cortes

The professional goals

I knew taking time off work could be a dangerous thing, because I'd done it before. Back in 2016 I sold Feetus in the October and moved to Spain a few months later, and what followed was what I'd honestly describe as a lazy period. It lasted fifteen months. So this time I made sure I had professional goals alongside everything else. I'd used AI tools in my previous role as instructional designer and marketing manager at Teach HQ, and I wanted to go deeper. Build things of value. Things I'd love to use. Skills that can help in my next career steps.

A dating app concept

First up: a single man living in a small pueblo uses dating apps. My observation from using them is that they're all the same. Swipe right if you like this person, swipe left if not. So I looked at other ways a dating app could work. Why see just one profile at a time? So I built Fourank, where you see four profiles at once and rank them in order. Rank someone number one, and if they do the same, boom, it's a match. In the app it's called First Love. You both ranked each other first, after all. Everything centred on the number four: four photos, four hobbies, four prompts. But Fourank was flawed, it asked too much of the user. It wasn't as simple as the others, and maybe that explains the success of Tinder, Bumble, Hinge. It all hinges on simplicity. Still, an interesting concept, and it forced me to think about how I'd actually want a dating app to be.

Fourank logo

Lesson learned: if you're living remotely, dating apps are a good idea. Love them or loathe them, they're a good way to meet people. And if anyone building one wants a hand from someone who's thought about this far too much, let's chat.

Matching through music tastes

I love music. It's a buzz when you meet someone who shares that. My first thought was a dating app that matched people by music taste, but limiting it to dating felt like a waste, the idea was bigger than that. Spotify has a brilliant algorithm and no real community, no way to share your taste and connect with the people behind the playlists you love. So I built TrackTribe, a social discovery platform where you match with people through music, not photos. The core of it is a game: you listen to 30 second previews from a stranger's playlist and swipe. Like enough of their songs and it's a match, the curator is revealed, and you can follow or message them. Then Spotify changed their API policy and capped new apps at five users, which killed any chance of launching.

The full story is here. Another good idea. Maybe I'll take it to another platform one day. Hi Tidal ;-)

TrackTribe discover interface
TrackTribe discover interface

Datavata, and why I really came here

The biggest draw of a place like Cortes was to be outside. Cortes sits right on the border of two parques naturales: Los Alcornocales, one of the largest cork oak forests in Europe, green and shaded even at the height of summer; and the Sierra de Grazalema, one of the wettest places in Spain, a dramatic limestone range that's home to the pinsapo, the Spanish fir, a relic species that survives almost nowhere else on Earth.

So naturally I spent my time exploring. Running, cycling, gravel biking, hiking. And the more I explored, the more I wanted from the data my sports watch was recording. Strava is amazing, what a tool, but I wanted more. So I built Datavata, and every itch that came from being out in the Serranía de Ronda turned into a feature.

I wanted to know which peaks I'd climbed and which I hadn't, so I built a peak bagger. My obsession is covering all terrain, all roads, all trails, I want to see it all, so I built a route planner that overlays my previous activities heat-map style and lets me plan through the gaps. I was covering more elevation than I had in years and wondered how it stacked against the past, so I built progress and comparison charts. And around here you pass through different microclimates on a single ride, one valley dry while the next is soaked, so I built the weather into the route planner, to see whether a hundred kilometre loop is better tackled clockwise or anticlockwise, to catch the wind right or dodge a band of rain.

Datavata peak bagger interface showing summits climbed across the Serranía de Ronda
Datavata route planner with heat-map overlay highlighting gaps in terrain coverage
Datavata terrain coverage map showing all roads and trails explored around Cortes
Datavata progress charts tracking elevation gain and distance over time
Datavata comparison view showing activity metrics across different time periods

Datavata is now a big thing. Too big, honestly. What started as a humble project to give me insights has turned into a monster, so much useful data and analysis that it's become daunting, and I'm not happy with the aesthetic. To be continued. Feel free to check out the behemoth that is Datavata here: www.datavata.app

The dip, and AgniAtlas

There were a couple of weeks during spring where I felt a dip in my energy and was lacking the motivation to get out running and cycling as I normally would. This prompted me to look at my diet in a little more detail, which I'd never really done. I've always been fit and active and never thought much about food. After seeing the effect of Ayurveda firsthand during six weeks in Sri Lanka last year, I wanted to understand my dosha, my Ayurvedic constitution, and what it could tell me about the right foods, the right timing, what to avoid. The research turned into adjustments, and the adjustments worked: more energy, less fatigue, better sleep, better digestion.

That led to AgniAtlas, a conversational platform that asks a structured series of questions about your constitution, digestion, sleep, energy and temperament, then generates a personalised dosha profile with dietary and lifestyle recommendations. Same instinct as Datavata, really: a question about myself I couldn't easily answer anywhere else, so I built the thing that could answer it.

AgniAtlas conversational interface asking questions about constitution and digestion
AgniAtlas personalised dosha profile dashboard with dietary recommendations

Separate blog post about AgniAtlas coming soon. For now, check out the tool. You will learn something very useful about yourself with it.

The rest of the building

Along the way I built websites for others, which became Digital Frontera, an umbrella for offering affordable sites to local companies. I know firsthand what agencies charge, when I set up Feetus in 2012, before Shopify existed, I paid £10,000 for an e-commerce website.

More recently I started looking at what employment was actually out there, first time in years, and found the whole process so cumbersome that I built my way around it. Career Frontera is my own personal job seeking platform: it runs a search against my criteria every day at 10am, scores every listing out of 100, and shows me only what's worth looking at. Far more efficient than trawling job boards.

And lately, inspired by my talented friend Poki, who makes motion design and recently did some seriously impressive work with camera-controlled hand-gesture interaction, beautiful work, though it made me wonder what tools like that could do if pointed at something useful, I started building Fuck Off, Travel. A brutalist, deliberately rebellious travel concept: instead of scrolling curated best-of lists, you find your next destination through chance and physical interaction. Spin a globe and throw a dart. Toss a coin into cups labelled with continents, then countries, then cities. Let chaos decide instead of an algorithm.

Fuck Off, Travel interface
Fuck Off, Travel interface

The body kept score too

My fitness took a turn for the better this year. The foundation was already there, but athletically I'm fitter now, better endurance, feeling good at 40. Side story: for my 40th birthday in December, I ran and hiked 40 kilometres through the Sierra de Grazalema. Living here in this mountain pueblo, it's easy to stay in shape: Calisthenics park several times a week, yoga on the terrace, there's a gym in town, a climbing wall, and access to the mountain from my doorstep. There are no easy routes in these parts.

Setting off on the 40km birthday hike through the Sierra de Grazalema
Climbing through limestone terrain on the 40th birthday route
High on the ridge during the 40km Grazalema traverse
Finishing the 40km birthday hike as the light fades
Calisthenics training at the outdoor park near Cortes
Calisthenics training at the outdoor park near Cortes

Other highlights from nine months

  • Sleeping outside: in the mountains, in refugios, on the terrace
Camp setup with cooking gear in the mountains above Cortes
Sleeping out under the stars in the Serranía de Ronda
Sleeping setup on a rocky hillside above Cortes
Morning light from an overnight spent sleeping outside
  • The views and sunrises from the terraces of the house
Sunrise over the mountains from the terrace of the house in Cortes
Early morning light spilling across the valley from the terrace
Golden hour view from the house looking out over Cortes de la Frontera
Panoramic view from the terrace across the Serranía de Ronda
  • The weekly circuits of Sierra de los Pinos
Trail through cork oaks on the Sierra de los Pinos circuit
Views across the valley from the Sierra de los Pinos ridge
Late light on the Sierra de los Pinos descent
  • Autumn in the Valle del Genal
Walking through the autumnal Valle del Genal
  • Waking up to snow one morning and hiking in it, around Benaocaz
Hiking through snow near Benaocaz in January 2026
Hiking through snow near Benaocaz in January 2026
  • Navigating the Río Guadiaro on inflatable rings
Floating down the Río Guadiaro on inflatable rings
Floating down the Río Guadiaro on inflatable rings
  • Discovering a lake that absolutely nobody else goes to
A hidden lake in the mountains
A hidden lake in the mountains
  • Exploring abandoned properties
The swimming pool of an abandoned hotel
The swimming pool of an abandoned hotel
  • Finding "treasure"
A set of antlers found while exploring the sierra
A set of antlers found while exploring the sierra
  • Wild swimming in rivers, charcos, and the local piscina
Swimming in a hidden charco in the mountains near Cortes
Wading into a river pool on a hot afternoon
Wild swimming in one of the rivers around Cortes
  • The poems and murals painted on walls all over the pueblo
A poem painted on a whitewashed wall in Cortes de la Frontera
Mural on the side of a building in the pueblo
Painted verse on an Andalusian village wall
  • Hiking with my son on a route we'd done together eight years before
Hiking with my son on the same route, eight years apart
With my son on a mountain summit near Cortes
  • Hikes with friends
Friends together at the river near Cortes
On the approach to El Reloj y Simancón from Villaluenga del Rosario
Scrambling up the limestone on El Reloj
High on the ridge of Simancón with dramatic cliff exposure
The view from the summit of El Reloj y Simancón
Friends gathered together during a visit to Cortes
  • Hosting touring cyclists through WarmShowers
Touring cyclist arriving at the house in Cortes through WarmShowers
Hosting a cycle tourer, bikes parked outside the house
Sharing a meal with a WarmShowers guest
A touring cyclist setting off from Cortes after staying the night
Another WarmShowers visitor with loaded panniers outside the house
Cycling with Dickie near Cortes

The hard parts

It hasn't all been plain sailing. Some of the heaviest rainfall in years. And this place gets cold, Spanish pueblo houses are so poorly insulated that some mornings I'd wake up and see my breath in front of my face while still in bed. I did everything to stay warm: a battery powered gilet with heat pouches, USB powered mittens, USB powered insoles. Friends laughed at the lot of it. The rains were bad enough that the house is currently getting a new roof, ready for next winter.

Heavy rain falling on the streets of Cortes de la Frontera
Soaking wet hiking shoes after a day in the rain

But I met some incredible people along the way. Shared so many memorable hikes. Showed people places they'd never have known existed if I hadn't been out here exploring them myself. Grateful to everyone who visited.

Poki on the train heading to Cortes de la Frontera
Hiking with Poki in the sierra
Uli visiting Cortes
Group of friends on a hike in the mountains near Cortes
Out with friends on a trail above Cortes

What should have been the last day

So here I am, on what was meant to be the end of it. Nine months up. The plan now: spend the rest of the summer in England, and then, because I couldn't leave it at that, I've committed to returning to Cortes de la Frontera in September. The sabbatical is over, but Cortes isn't finished with me yet, or maybe it's the other way round.

I'm returning recharged, inspired, strong and healthy, physically and mentally, and properly fucking ready to get my teeth into a new challenge. Ideally a role in a startup, my generalist skills suit that environment well. Or a project of my own, taken forward properly this time.

Zahara de la Sierra, white village perched above its reservoir
Zahara de la Sierra, white village perched above its reservoir
Lee Firman in Norway

From the north-east coast of England. Made a pre-Brexit escape to Málaga, and since late 2025 based mostly in a small pueblo in the mountains of the Serranía de Ronda in Andalucía.

Most of my time outside work is spent on unconventional adventures, exploring, and doing silly things outside. I organise hiking trips and occasionally host cyclists passing through via WarmShowers.

I love to get lost in a good book and listen to a lot of music. I believe in variety and enjoy doing lots of different things.

PROFESSIONALLY

I've spent my career making complicated things easier to understand: building course platforms, writing brand strategy, and occasionally explaining to a developer what I actually want.

Over fifteen years across corporate, startups and my own businesses: content, marketing, instructional design, strategy. Founded and sold a company, scaled platforms to tens of thousands of users.

Open to full-time roles and freelance projects. I've spent most of my career in learning design, content, and marketing, but what interests me most right now is taking that experience somewhere new. New industries, new problems, different kinds of work.

Get in touch

Interested in working together? Want to discuss a project or just say hi? Drop me a message and I'll get back to you.